From Lisbon to Vijayanagara: Duarte Barbosa's Indian Adventure
An eye-witness account of Kerala, Karnataka and Krishnadeva Raya's court
Picture this: It's the early 16th century, and while most Europeans are still arguing about whether the world is flat, a young Portuguese scribe named Duarte Barbosa is gallivanting around India, scribbling notes like a medieval Anthony Bourdain. Talk about a dream job!
”The Kingdom of Narsinga, it is very rich, and well supplied with provisions, and is very full of cities and large townships.”
Duarte Barbosa, clearly impressed by Vijayanagara
Barbosa wasn't your typical tourist. Oh no, this guy was part of the Portuguese India armada, arriving in India around 1500 AD. But instead of just hanging around the Portuguese enclaves, sipping port and complaining about the heat, Barbosa decided to really get to know the place. He learned the local languages, made friends with the natives, and basically turned himself into a 16th-century anthropologist.
The Book of Duarte Barbosa
Now, Barbosa didn't just keep his adventures to himself. He wrote it all down in what became known as "The Book of Duarte Barbosa." Think of it as a Lonely Planet guide for the Renaissance era, minus the backpacker hostels and tips on where to find the best avocado toast.
This book is a treasure trove of information about India and the Indian Ocean world of the early 16th century. Barbosa covers everything from trade routes and local customs to the political landscape and, of course, the food. (Seriously, the guy loved talking about food.)
Vijayanagara: The City that Blew Barbosa's Mind
One of the highlights of Barbosa's Indian adventure was his visit to Vijayanagara, the capital of the eponymous empire. Now, imagine you're a guy from Lisbon, where the biggest excitement is a new shipment of salted cod, and suddenly you're in this massive, thriving metropolis that makes your hometown look like a village.
“There are also in this city many other palaces of great lords, who live there. And all the other houses of the place are covered with thatch, and the streets and squares are very wide. They are constantly filled with an innumerable crowd of all nations and creeds.... There is an infinite trade in this city....” Duarte Barbosa (translation by Robert Sewell)
Barbosa was, to put it mildly, impressed. He writes about Vijayanagara's massive fortifications, its bustling markets, and its wealthy nobles. He describes the city as "very large and very populous," which in 16th-century explorer speak basically means "Holy cow, this place is huge!"
But what really caught Barbosa's eye was the wealth. He talks about seeing precious stones being sold in the streets "as if they were fruits." I don't know about you, but the fruit in my local market doesn't sparkle quite that much.
The King, The Customs, and The Curiosities
Barbosa doesn't just stick to describing the city. He gives us a peek into the royal court, describing the king (probably Krishna Deva Raya, though Barbosa doesn't name him) as a guy who "shows great state, and is vain glorious." In other words, the king knew how to put on a show.
When our intrepid Portuguese traveler Duarte Barbosa wasn't busy marveling at the grandeur of Vijayanagara or jotting down notes about the spice trade, he was keenly observing—and often misinterpreting—the local customs and practices.
Coming from a monotheistic Christian background, Barbosa was both intrigued and bewildered by the vast pantheon of Hindu gods. He described Hindu temples and practices, often with a mix of fascination and disapproval.
In one amusing instance, he describes a temple ceremony where he saw people "worshipping the devil." What he was likely witnessing was probably a puja to a fierce form of a deity like Kali or Bhairava.
It's a reminder that while Barbosa was an open-minded guy for his time, he was still viewing everything through a European lens.
Barbosa's Legacy: More Than Just a Travel Guide
While Barbosa published his book in 1516 (according to Italian writer Giovanni Battista Ramusio, who’d written the foreward) the original manuscript was discovered in the 19th century and published in Lisbon.
Now, you might be thinking, "Okay, so this Barbosa guy wrote a fancy travel diary. So what?" Well, let me tell you, this book was a big deal. It was one of the first detailed accounts of India and the Indian Ocean world written by a European who had actually spent significant time there.
Barbosa's writings gave Europeans a glimpse into a world that was, until then, shrouded in mystery and myth. He dispelled some misconceptions (no, not everyone in India was fabulously wealthy and no, they didn't worship cows as gods) and confirmed others (yes, the spices really were that good).
More importantly, Barbosa's work provides us with a valuable snapshot of India at a crucial moment in history. The Portuguese had just arrived, the Vijayanagara Empire was at its peak, and the entire Indian Ocean trade network was about to be turned upside down.
The Irony of History
In a twist of fate that proves history has a sense of humor, Barbosa ended up joining his brother-in-law, Ferdinand Magellan, on his attempt to circumnavigate the globe. Barbosa never made it back to Portugal, dying in a skirmish in the Philippines in 1521. But his book lived on, published posthumously and becoming a key source for historians studying this period.
So, the next time you're planning a trip to India and find yourself scrolling through TripAdvisor reviews, spare a thought for good old Duarte Barbosa. He was reviewing Indian cities before it was cool, armed with nothing but a quill, some parchment, and an insatiable curiosity about the world around him.
For those of you hungry for more tales from the age of exploration, here are a few books to quench your thirst for knowledge (or at least give you something to read on your next long-haul flight):
"The Book of Duarte Barbosa" translated by Mansel Longworth Dames - Because why not go straight to the source?
"The City of Victory: Vijayanagara" by John M. Fritz and George Michell - For when you want to dive deep into the city that so impressed our Portuguese friend.
"The Portuguese Empire in Asia, 1500-1700" by Sanjay Subrahmanyam - To understand the bigger picture of what Barbosa was part of.